Archive for the ‘Wordly’ Category

An anchor of love

The bubble says “te quiero.” Havana, Cuba (by Roxanne Krystalli)

Perhaps the Skype credit is running low, or time is running out.

“Anyway, my love… I have to run.”

I never understand why we have to run. Once this call is over, we will likely sit exactly where we were, holding a quiet phone.

“Ok…”, says one of us. “Well…I love you,” says the other and this cliche, cheesy and predictable cycle of not wanting to be the first to hang up goes on for a little longer until Skype reminds one that credit is indeed running low or “your connection is too slow for this call” and does us all the favor of hanging up on our behalf.

***

My life has been in the kind of constant motion that renders me a woman on auto-pilot. I have gotten very good at predicting when the coffee cart will reach aisle 9 of whichever plane I am in. I am the person you want to stand behind at airport security because I am fast.

Nomadism, be it mandated by work or inspired by personal choice, can contain an inherent deception. Nomads appear to move seamlessly, gracefully, almost elegantly. They glide through spaces and time.  What they do not tell you is that they, too, need the ties. They may not need one zip code at which to receive catalogues and they may not need to buy coffee at the same corner shop every morning. But they need something that reminds them that amidst the disorientation and overstimulation of constant motion, they are home.

We all need anchors. My anchor is love.

I met the person who lights up my days on a sailboat on the Nile river — appropriately in motion. Since then, my most reliably recurring behavior takes place curb-side. At Chicago O’Hare that area is called the Kiss-n-Fly; in other airports, it is simply labeled the “move over, guy, if you do not want a ticket for excessive kissing in the loading and unloading zone.” I have hugged and cried at O’Hare, at Ben-Gurion airport, at Logan, at CVG, at SKG, at BOG, at JFK. The list goes on, and has gone on for years.

Many digital tears have been shed over how to make a long-distance relationship work. Being a woman in a long-distance relationship, particularly in a conflict or post-conflict zone, invites a lot of advice from people sitting next to you on planes or in bars (or bomb shelters). “Maybe you should, you know, settle down. Pick a place. This is no way to start a family.” Never mind if you are thinking about a family right this second. “Do you worry that he may meet a nice, quiet girl who stays in one place and fall in love with her?” or… more compassionately… “It must be lonely.”

It is lonely.

That is the thing about anchors. Once your anchor is a human, the compass is always a little off without him or her. My latest work-related gallivanting has been followed by a series of visits with beloved friends, in a Little-Red-Riding-Hood-like attempt to piece together crumbs of an old, more stable, less frenetic life. I have dived into hugs and I have been driven to the airport with a reminder to “send an email when you land.” I have asked and answered questions and even let some questions swim in uncertainty. The last time I was truly awake and alone was on May 18th of this year. And here I am, surrounded by people, at my loneliest.

***

When your anchor is a love far away, it is hard to be fully present, fully mindful, fully focused on anything. In the beginning, you scan the room, hoping to see him and retell the anecdote that made you laugh. Later on, you realize you behave as though you are missing a limb, feeling out the space your loved one once occupied. There is a lot of  trailing “sooo… how was your day?” on Skype calls with too slow internet and a lot of love poured into Gmails and Gchats. I am amazed they have not come up with Google Love yet.

You feel lucky that one person can bring you that much joy, that much tenderness, that much fulfillment. You feel naive for ever delegating all that to one person. You become a believer; an ocean between two loves is not the place for cynics. You feel pathetic for tearing up at the mention of his name and you blush when someone points out you light up when talking about her.  But, mostly, if you – and your love – are to survive, you embrace the lonely.

When I was living in Guatemala and he was visiting family in Kentucky, I used to joke that moving in together somewhere where we could unpack our bags would be the end of “us.” “Imagine if we could put the suitcases away!” I would joke. “We could fight about chores and cleaning the house. We could watch Top Chef together on the couch.” After Guatemala was Cuba, after Cuba came Greece, after Greece the rest of the Balkans, after them a dusty town in southern Israel. And, what do you know, we did unpack and we watched Top Chef and we pretended to fight about sweeping and the toilet seat. And, for this nomad, it was heaven.

***

Mary Oliver wrote one of my favorite lines in poetry: “You only have to let the soft animal of your body love what it loves.” There is a lot of advice for international development workers and conflict specialists and nomads and travelers and ‘women on the road.’ I have been told not to get attached. To live fully and to experience everything and to not linger or get caught up in people, in stories, in places or in circumstances. I have been told this is no way for a love to grow and thrive; I have been told to settle down and I have been told to choose.

Mary Oliver still wins in my heart. There is a love somewhere across the ocean, in our former dusty home whose living room is probably unswept right now, and that love fuels me. It grounds me, it energizes me, it slows me down. It helps me process. It makes me look forward and it makes me reminisce. When I was a more emotionally stunted college student with 643 too many inhibitions, I never dreamed I would live like this. Writing about love on the internet — about my love no less! — violated every New England sensibility that had seeped into my Greek blood. Since then, I have lived in a dozen conflict and post-conflict zones, I have been terrified and drunk off life, I have unlearned a lot of ingrained habit, and I have let Mary Oliver teach me.

I was recently sharing my still-relevant inhibitions about writing with a dear friend and mentor. “Why would I want to write about my own story? Why would anyone want to read it? The personal essay feels self-indulged,” I whined. He countered that this is not just my story; it holds a grain of someone else’s and it can intersect with yet another story and suddenly there are many stories of love and loss and conflict and grief that swim in the same pool of companionship.

I am away from my anchor, and here I am: half-present, a quarter mindful, wholly loving, writing my way out of my loneliness.

Roxanne Krystalli is a regular contributor to Gypsy Girls Guide.

Notebooks tell their story

by Roxanne Krystalli

I have always been a girl attached to recording. It started with unimaginative to-do lists. On the wall of my childhood bedroom, right over a poster of a Greek pop star whose day has come and gone, you will still find a Post-it note that reads:

  • World Literature Assignment on The Stranger
  • Write debate case
  • Orthodontist – 5 PM, Tuesday

As life progressed and other experiences let the glory of orthodontist appointments fade into oblivion, I started jotting down memories instead of to-do’s. Some people use journals as the receptacles of their memories; others scrapbook. Yet others make digital photo albums. My chosen vehicles of nostalgia are notebooks.

This is how I know that on a November Thursday in 2005 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, I had my first Snapple. In the beginning, I rarely used my notebooks to write full stories, or even full sentences. I recorded life in a waterfall of lists: lists of songs that reminded me of a particular period of time, lists of ideas I had in the shower – even a list of “Things I Could Do With My Life.”

In the spring of 2009, I was getting ready to embark on my first field projects as a gender-related development specialist in conflict zones. The notebooks did not know it, but their ivory, unlined pages were about to be read by inquisitive border protection officers in the Middle East – one of whom earnestly inquired “Who is Elijah and why did he get you locked out again?” I would lose some pages to a mugging in South America, likely resulting in a Colombian reading about my attachment to the Tony Dize song emanating from taxis that February. I would almost drown a different notebook during a hurricane in Guatemala.

Both the unlined pages and I have survived. Their story is my story.

Written in a car between Gulu and Entebbe, Uganda

My imagination was entirely wrapped up in food: the ants in it, my craving for pancakes, the granola at Cafe Larem in the North of a country that was just recovering from a 20-year civil war. I was always moved by kindness, but at the same time was displeased by the fact that I, a white foreigner, was invited to skip the line at the doctor when women with more serious conditions and young children had been waiting there ahead of me. And I was missing my loved one, who was still living on the other side of the Nile. The longing and heartache of the geographical separation was at the top of the memory list.

Written at Pottery Cafe, Cairo, Egypt

I flag my favorite passages in what I read and copy them down in the unlined pages of my notebooks, word for word. Here: Kundera, Herman Hesse, and Nick and Norah’s Infinite Playlist share space on my pages.

Written in Ciudad Bolivar, Colombia [blow-dried in Antigua, Guatemala]

Lined pages. I initially resented them because I used to be neurotic enough to be pickier about notebooks than I was about mattress firmness. This was the notebook that nearly drowned in Hurricane Agatha in Guatemala. I blow-dried this transcription of a female war survivor’s story. The memory of it is less fuzzy than the writing.

Written on my bed in Bogota, Colombia

Serving suggestion: It is not a good idea to conduct a training on ex-combatants’ memory reconciliation if you have little command of the past tense of the language in question. It is an even worse idea when the language has more than two past tenses.

Written in Beersheba, Israel

And once you have mastered the past tenses in Spanish, why not try to learn the vowels in Hebrew? One of these endeavors was more successful than the other and this page serves to remind me of the languages that might have been.

Written in Jerusalem

The notebooks have not just been a snakes-and-ladders game of nostalgia and anticipation, though they have captured and reflected both. In this page I brainstormed questions for an interview with an American girl who participated in the Egypts protests in January 2011.

Written (started?) in Agra, India

This “I want to photograph…” list has spilled into more than one page and more than one notebook over more than two years.

Written in a car on the way to Haifa, Israel

Another of my favorite ways to measure time, reflect on memories and remember travels: The songs that accompanied me through the wandering.

How do you record your journey, memories and wanderings? Revisit a page from an old notebook, or a song from an old playlist, or a photo album you have not browsed in a while. What memories does it stir?

A Long Way To Go

This is what I hear a lot: “Wow, that’s a long way to go for just one week.”

I love to travel ~ would do it ten times as much as I do now if I could ~ but for the time being, even though I work for myself, the time available to me for globetrotting is limited. It isn’t impossible for me to take more time to visit places like China, New Zealand, or Argentina, but anything beyond 7-10 days away from home simply feels like too much most of the time. Which is why so many people end up saying this to me, finding it hard to imagine why I’m willing to take flights that are eight, ten, and twelve hours long for visits as short as five days.

It is true ~ flights to other continents are long ones, and they aren’t especially easy. There are more forms to fill out, a passport must be stamped, and I have to arrive at the airport even earlier. For one reason or another, I am often times required to break one of my Golden Rules of Travel, which is to avoid checking a bag by any means necessary. These flights taking planning and they take effort, and they are monumentally exhausting.

But once the flight is over, I’m walking on foreign soil, and that is what makes it all worth it. Most recently, I took a twelve-hour flight to Beijing, and within 24 hours of landing I was standing in Tiananmen Square with my best friend from middle school and her family. Thanks to that twelve-hour flight, I got to walk on the Great Wall of China, eat Peking Duck in Beijing, and listen to my friends tell story after story of their around the world adventures. I was able to smell the burning incense in front of the Lama Temple, and had to crane my neck to see the world’s largest Buddha statue carved out of a single tree, giving me a visceral, physical sense of the enormity of this creation. I felt the slightly unnerving squash of bodies in a crowded alley with red lanterns overhead and and heard the lyrical clamor of vendors selling fried scorpions on skewers, cheap souvenirs, and shiny, sugar-glazed fruit.

In the scheme of things, these long flights are but a brief flash of time. When I think of the entirety of my life, which could end tomorrow or next year or not for another two decades, these flights are put into glowing perspective. So for the time being, while I have a husband and a family and a puppy and a home, I’ll happily accept these shorter journeys, because no amount of distance is too long to travel for the gift of extraordinary moments, the thrill of pursuing my passion.

Christine Mason Miller is a writer and artist who loves to travel and explore the world.