Archive for March, 2011

New Ways to See

Have you ever gone on a trip, not expecting anything more than a few days of rest and fun, and ended up with a radically new perspective? Have you gone somewhere expecting one thing and received something completely different? You may have come home from your trip with a great tan, as well as a whole new head space—looking at your life in a completely new way, and feeling either shaken or thrilled, or both.

We travel for a lot of different reasons, but I would guess that the top reasons are: to experience places that are different from where we live, to visit exotic and beautiful parts of the world, and to dip our toes into a different stream while we take a break from our everyday lives.

The first time I remember experiencing a destination as a new way of seeing things was when I took a 4 day trip to Istanbul. I was living in Athens in the late 80s on a residency visa and every 3 months I had to leave the country to renew the visa.

Somewhere in the far recesses of my mind I had wanted to visit Turkey, but truthfully, at the time that I went, I was just looking for a different place to go, have a fun few days and go home. When a friend that I worked with told me she had a friend in Istanbul who would be happy to show me around, that made my decision all the easier.

I arrived in Istanbul and was met at the airport by my new friend Gürken. Over the next few days he took me to some amazing places—the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace— he took me down back streets, and to small bazaars and markets and I met many of his friends and much of his family. He wanted to show me everything about the city that was his beloved home, and so to make the trip complete, he also took me to the Asian side of the city. He said he wanted me to see the whole of Istanbul, not just the side that was for the tourists.

We crossed the Bosphorus in a little boat and landed on the Asian side of Istanbul. I believe Istanbul is the only city to reside in two continents. I have to repeat that another way: One city, Two continents. Imagine the city you live in straddling 2 continents, especially two as varied as Europe and Asia.

Our main destination was the home of some of his friends, for a hike along the water and then dinner. After the crossing, we stopped at the market to buy produce and fish as our contribution to the meal. I had travelled some in my then short life, but I had never travelled into a world so vastly different then my own.

I had never seen women with veils over their faces in person,, or three wives in full burqa, walking behind their one husband. I had never seen the beauty and the poverty that I saw that day. And I had never seen my western-female-self, through someone’s eyes who had not grown up in anything close to my world.

I was young, in my early-mid twenties and I can’t remember exactly what I wore that day but it was probably a variation on my usual theme at that time: blue jeans, t-shirt, lots of necklaces and bracelets, and sandals. I remember feeling lots of eyes on me. I couldn’t tell if the women looked at me, their heads were down or covered; and from the men there were no direct gazes, only peripheral looks filled with disapproval, but it felt like all eyes were on me. And then  I looked around more carefully, and realised that I was the only woman there whose head and arms were not covered, and one of the few women there that did not have her face covered.

It never occurred to me that I should have asked how to dress before we got in the boat to make the crossing. It never occurred to me that anyone except maybe my mother might have a disapproving thought about what I had decided to wear that day. When I realised that we were at the center of a lot of uncomfortable attention, I felt a quick succession of emotions: embarrassment, confusion, irritation, then back to embarrassment.

I asked my friend why he hadn’t thought to tell me that it would be different on this side of the city, that I should bring something to cover my head, that I should have dressed just a little more low key. He told me he hadn’t thought about it.

We talked at dinner that night about the differences between western and eastern culture, the differences between western and Muslim culture, and where it is that we meet, and where it is that we misunderstand each other. We talked about women, and their places in both cultures, and we talked about men and their place too. I realised how very different my life was from theirs. Not better, not worse, just different.

In the days and weeks after I got home to my apartment in Athens, to my Australian roommate, to my job at a British magazine, and to my group of friends from different places around the world, I thought about some of the things I had seen and felt, about the things we had discussed at that dinner table in eastern Istanbul and acknowledged that even with all my travel and my friends from different places in the world, I still had a lot to learn about the world, about people, about cultures different from my own.

My trip to Istanbul gave me the gift of seeing myself through the lens of another culture. It changed the way I look at people,  and opened me up to the fact that though I had already seen a lot of the world in my then short life, I hadn’t begun to scratch the surface of what was out there to be experienced. I look back at that day in the marketplace, and remember how that was the day that I discovered that the world is much much deeper and bigger and wider than I had ever truly realised.

One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things. -Henry Miller

EDITED to ADD: Reading all of your comments has been a great experience and after reading them realised that I needed to add a few more words. The experience that I talked about was less a travel piece about Turkey and much more about something that happened to me, that was personal to my experience, and an important part of my education as a “citizen of the planet”.

Istanbul (the only place I have ever been to in Turkey) is probably one of the most exotically wonderful places I have ever visited. I grew up in a few different countries in Western Europe, South America and also the U.S., and so when I visited Turkey I thought I had seen enough of the world that there was not much more for me to learn. I was wrong about that. That was what my post was about, and it was written less as a piece about travelling and more about how it changed the way I saw myself and the world.

My trip to Turkey was full of wonderful experiences and many new insights. I met many lovely, warm people, and visited some amazing places. But mostly that 4 day trip taught me a lot about what I didn’t know about the world.

I would love to hear about anyone else’s experiences on a trip that taught them similar lessons about themselves and the world, and would love to hear more stories about Turkey today. As I said at the beginning of the story, this was an experience from the late 80s—1987 to be specific—and perhaps much has changed in that area of Istanbul since then.

I think one of the most amazing things about travel is that it can teach us about how others live, and teach us just as much about our selves. What a gift!

Liz Kalloch is a regular contributor to Gypsy Girl’s Guide.

All Over The Map

I am suffering from a major case of grass is greeneritis. Here’s the deal. We decided to start our European life in Semur En Auxois for a bunch of different reasons but a big one was that Semur was the desired base for the property business. Now that it’s off we are pretty much free to go anywhere we like.

When I say anywhere I mean anywhere in France. See there’s no way I’m starting up with a new language. Who’d do the clean up after my head exploded? Plus we’ve got a bank account, a French Mastercard, a work visa for Neil and now a start into the health care system. Six months of pull your hair out, stick a fork in your eye work.

So now the relentless thought factory in my head is engaged in a ping pong match that is making me dizzy. Semur is a great little town, lots of nice people, great walking trails, the mayor is nice to us, blah, blah, le blah. But housing options are limited, shops are closing and there’s no way to know about it’s future. Hmmm.

Is Semur the right place for me? Maybe, maybe not. Now I didn’t haul my lily white, denty arse all the way over here to live in a place that I don’t feel is truly ‘the one’. Sounds silly but this is the chance of a lifetime and I don’t want to screw it up. How often in life do we really get to choose?

France is the land of pretty towns which is what makes it difficult. I don’t want to stay here just because of my newfound state of perpetual inertia nor do I want to get caught up in seeking perfection. I could move around to different towns but I’ve been there, done that and got the packing tape scars to prove it. No I want to settle in somewhere.

Yesterday I declared to my wife-weary husband, “we must live in Semur for the rest of our days!” then 2 hours later I was emailing him houses in the vineyards. I’ve always been a bit loopy this way. You should see me with a menu. I’m always thinking that what I pass up will be better than what I order. I’ve actually broken out in a sweat over appetizer choices. Now I have all of France in front of me. Let the neurosis begin.

See this is what happens to psychiatrists who have way too much free time to loll about in pajamas. I know, I know if this is my biggest problem today things aren’t too bad. I’ll tell the waitress I need a few more minutes with the map and another glass of wine before I decide.

this is 100% fully alive

(In Her Image Photography)

I was having a long week, and knew that there was a cure for that: get the girlfriends together for a dinner somewhere on Friday. Then there’s something to look forward to all week.

My friend Melanie agreed to meet up with me at our favorite little vegan macrobiotic place (Shagri-La in Oakland, California), but her email contained one extra note: “At 7:30 I’m going to a drumming circle. You’re welcome to come, if you want.”

My mind flashed to the parties I’d been to where someone had started a drumming circle. While everyone else was having a good time with the music at those parties, I was the person plastering a smile on my face while my inner critic went overtime: This music is TOO LOUD. It’s driving me CRAZY. But everyone else is having SO MUCH FUN. I’m the ONLY ONE who’s not loving this. My energy feels splintered. It’s TOO LOUD in here. It’s driving me CRAZY. Why do I have to be the ONLY ONE who…

But just before I was responding to her email with a “no,” I backtracked. Why not just say I’d see if I felt up to it when we met for dinner?

So we met for dinner, and somewhere between the macrobiotic plate, running into an acquaintance of mine at random, and the wheat-free (but utterly delicious) chocolate cake, I decided I’d stop by the drumming circle to check out the scene, and that I’d take my car so that I could leave if it didn’t feel like my kind of vibe.

We arrived at the Oakland Attitudinal Healing Center and went in. In a large room were chairs in a circle and a djembe drum poised in front of each chair. Aisha greeted me, followed by Kokoman. I hesitated, checked things out, decided to take off my coat. Then I stepped to the side to ask Aisha: “I might need to leave partway through. Should I sit near the door?”

Aisha hesitated. “Well, this is a drumming meditation. It runs for a full hour. We ask people not to leave because it’s disruptive to the circle.”

Oy. Now I was pegged. I needed to either be in or out. If I was in, I might run up against loud music and wanting desperately to get out. If I was out, I wouldn’t know what was going to happen in that room that night. Kokoman came over to us. “We’re ready to begin. Are you ready?”

In a moment, I decided I’d stay. “You can tolerate anything for an hour,” I thought. I sat down in front of my drum.

Kokoman gave us our instructions: “This is a healing drum meditation. We watch each other, how their hands are moving, and we match their hands.”

My first thought? “I’m going to do this wrong.”

Kokoman continued: “The meditation lasts for one hour, and if you need to rest, please place your hands in the center of the drum. Just please, don’t do this for a whole hour. Try to get back in with the group if you can.”

My first thought? “I’m not going to be able to do this for an hour, and then everyone will be upset that my hands are still on my drum.”

Aisha added: “There’s no need to hit the djembe hard. There’s a saying—don’t hit the djembe hard, or the djembe will hit you. Your hands will hurt.”

My first thought? “My hands are going to hurt. Should I do this?”

But then we began. Kokoman hit his drum and we followed, two hands in the center of the drum. The djembe is an African drum. It’s carved from wood (usually sacred, blessed wood) and shaped like a goblet with the cupped part of the drum between your knees held at an angle. The drum top is made from the skin of an animal such as a goat, dried, stretched and cured. Each djembe has a unique sound. I knew all of this only because years ago, I had a friend who had played the djembe and I’d been inspired to research it after taking photographs of her hands in motion over the drum. I’d always wanted to play it myself, but never made the time.

Thrum. Thrum. Thrum. Thrum. This was the simple beat—two hands at the center of the drum, flat palms, thrum, thrum, thrum.

As I realized that in fact, I could do this, and that in fact, the beats weren’t that hard, and that in fact, the rising hum vibration of the drums were completely different from the loud party music I’d experienced before… It hit me—I’d just been afraid. That was all.

Fear, once again, had not shown up as straight out fear, but instead it had shown up as a series of boundaries I’d wanted to place around an experience. Maybe I’d go, maybe I’d just stop in, maybe I’d stop in and stay for a little while, maybe I’d stay, maybe I’d play the drum, maybe…

The beat changed as we went, but there I was, in this experience, in this room, drumming with others, forgetting myself and swaying my body to the call and response of the drum beats.

It was, in fact, a meditation. I was present to my experience and to the communal experience shared among the participants in the room.

I will remember this call to practice courage and to notice how fear shows up in so many forms. I want to remember the next time I hesitate before a new experience, that I did not regret trying a new experience this time… So why not add more new experiences to my life all the time, ever expanding? I will remember that this is why I’m here, why all of us are here. I will remember this connection between practicing courage, and living 100% fully alive.

What do you need to say Yes to?