San Francisco,Ocean Beach, 2006
I took this picture of my boyfriend getting ready to surf the other day. While he stretched, I observed and admired his courage to get into the cold water.
It got me thinking about how much I'd like to go in myself, but somehow don't. I sit outside, read, go on a walk, but I don't go in. Don't take me wrong, I love all those beach activities too. But the thing is that I do want to have fun in the water. So why do I fight it off? I make so many excuses... It's too cold, It's so much work to get in and out of the wet suit, the waves are not right for me today, I need a bigger board to learn on... And my favorite... What if there are hungry sharks out there today?
On the other hand, the times when I did give surf a chance, I had so much fun. At first, I sure got a bit overwhelmed carrying the huge board, trying not to trip on the leash and fighting the white water coming at me. But the magic happened when I started paddling to catch the wave. As I paddled and paddled, all those fears melted away... And soon, I was on the wave, enjoying every second of the ride. So maybe all I need to do is show up willing to paddle. Hmmm.
Does anyone else feel like it might be time to show up and paddle paddle paddle in order to get on a certain wave too?
Comments (2)
amen! it's always that first frightful step. but once i take it and find myself lost in the moment it's magic...
Posted by la vie en rose | December 8, 2006 2:15 PM
Posted on December 8, 2006 14:15
My husband surfs and my seven year old sun surfs, and my 5 year old daughter is learning to surf. They all have wetsuits. And there I am, sitting on the beach in Morocco...making excuses. ~sigh~
Posted by Maryam in Marrakech | December 12, 2006 1:41 PM
Posted on December 12, 2006 13:41